Sometime earlier this year I wrote a blog post saying
modern backpackers are pussies compared to the average Civil War soldier on
campaign carrying his gear and food without any aluminum tent poles, nylon
tents, freeze-dried food packages, goose-down vests, or fancy thick soled
light weight boots. In 1863 hikers and
soldiers had wool, wood, canvas, and leather to make all the stuff they carried
and wore.
Today, I’m reversing myself and applauding a young
couple who “ain’t no pussies.” They
proved that by bicycling 3,000 miles over 62 days from Boston, Mass. to
Sunnyside, a little farming town in Washington state. My hat is off to Nik Walther and Molly Heyman,
who resigned from their jobs in Boston, she as a special education teacher and
he as a brewer at Harpoon Brewery, stored their belongings, and crossed America
on two high-tech vehicles whose only motors were the couple’s legs.
Nik grew up
in Lockhart next door to us and his parents are close friends of three decades
now. In the summer of 2014 we spent a great week in Boston to attend Nik and
Molly’s wedding in a park.
Even though I’m stuck these days vicariously living in
the 19th century through writing about and reenacting the Civil War,
I’m forgiving Nik and Molly their use of nylon and high-strength light-weight
steel bikes and other such modernisms, because they rode roads and crossed
states that didn’t exist in the 1860’s.
Thanks to the wonders of digital technology they
blogged several times a week and kept their family and friends engaged with
their trip. Their blog is “Don’t Worry
Nate” on Google’s blogpost. Here’s the link if you are curious enough to read a
bit about their trip to find America.
Simon and Garfunkle would be proud of them.
Nik and Molly camped some nights in parks, one night
behind a gas station in a town in Wyoming. They stayed with extended family,
friends, and friends of friends, and begged showers. They discovered craft
breweries and local beers in every state crossed. Mostly, they pedaled and pedaled
and pedaled and pedaled through towns and cities, forests and crop land, over
America’s tallest mountains, and across wide, wide prairies. I’m impressed.
You’d have to be dead not to be impressed.
The end days of their trip were through an area in
Idaho where forest fires are a major issue. The threats of the fires caused
them to eventually get off their bikes and hitch a ride in a local couple’s pick-up
truck when the smoke was too heavy to continue pedaling and breathing, even
with their paper masks.
They didn’t
write if they ever saw flames in the trees, but if they had blogged that they
did, or posted such a photo, both mothers would have been unduly stressed. So
the question of “Just how close were you to a forest fire?” will have to be
answered later. Probably with cold Texas beers in hand.
And now I’m compelled to go back forty-three years to
1972 and mention Nita’s and my trip across America when we were newly-weds and young
people still listened to Simon and Garfunkle music.
A month after our wedding we took off on our version of
pedaling across America, except we did it using the gas pedal of a 1964 Chevy
pick-up with a homemade plywood camper shell on the back painted blue and green
on the outside and yellow and orange on the inside. Our families thought we
were nuts because we too had quit our jobs for the trip and I’d not yet
finished my college degree.
We probably traveled some of the same roads that Nik
and Molly rode. We stopped in parks and the driveways of extended family to
sleep in the camper. Both couples traveled
through Yellowstone National Park and marveled at the geysers and wildlife. I won't mention that in 1972 Nita slipped a Fig Newton cookie through a crack in the truck window to a bear while our dog went beserk.
We enjoyed borrowed bathrooms and showers as much as
Nik and Molly did. Well, probably not. We both took about two months to
complete our trips. I expect Nik and
Molly will have the same warm lifelong memories of their trip to find America
as Nita and I still have, and they'll have better looking legs.
In 1972, we came back to Texas and worked in Nita’s mom’s family
café in Dallas to earn enough seed money to return to Austin and resume our
pre-trip lives. To the surprise of my parents, I did finish college.
I expect Nik and Molly will flirt with moving to one of
the wonderful places they discovered on their pedaling journey, and might even
return to Colorado or South Carolina to try a new life. Or the siren call of
Boston may pull them back. Because even after two months of discovering
America, there’s no place like home.
There’s no Civil War or novel writing point to this
post. Maybe next week.
This week I read a John Grisham thriller, The Racketeer, and kept thinking, damn,
this guy can write.